"I discover that aside from cuttlefish, the stall also makes retro biscuits shaped like ears. They are made from scratch and fried in a wok, with a mechanical arm that turns them around. I am offered some warm biscuits fresh from the wok and they are thinner than commercially produced ones and absolutely delicious. Each packet costs $3.50 and I polish off two in two days.

Equally enchanting is the cuttlefish (from $4 for 50g, above). They are what a friend would describe as "atomically crispy". There is sweetness from sugar and maltose and some heat from chilli powder. However, it is the distinct funk of dried cuttlefish that keeps me reaching into the resealable bag."